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Author Topic: Anyone know of a good wax to use that isn't too expensive?  (Read 13070 times)
Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« on: March 20, 2011, 08:58:04 PM »

I've used various waxes over the years... I generally try to wax my cars once .. maybe twice a year.  I've been using the orange bottne Nu Finish stuff the past couple of years.  Goes on and off easy enough and seems to do pretty well.  I have heard that carnuba waxes help fill scratches and imperfections better, but I don't know how long lasting it really is.  I don't believe I've ever used a Carnuba before...  can anyone else speak from experience?  Pros/Cons    I think I've seen a few that are carnuba that are in the 15-20 range..  just wondered what some folks here may like the best.  FWIW I don't currently have a buffing wheel.. so that could be a big factor for some products being more difficult to apply or remove.  I'm thinking of getting a buffing wheel though.. $30-40 seems like a minimal cost to help take all of the real work out of a wax job.   Smiley
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Monkey
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2011, 10:43:35 PM »

I've used various waxes over the years... I generally try to wax my cars once .. maybe twice a year.  I've been using the orange bottne Nu Finish stuff the past couple of years.  Goes on and off easy enough and seems to do pretty well.  I have heard that carnuba waxes help fill scratches and imperfections better, but I don't know how long lasting it really is.  I don't believe I've ever used a Carnuba before...  can anyone else speak from experience?  Pros/Cons    I think I've seen a few that are carnuba that are in the 15-20 range..  just wondered what some folks here may like the best.  FWIW I don't currently have a buffing wheel.. so that could be a big factor for some products being more difficult to apply or remove.  I'm thinking of getting a buffing wheel though.. $30-40 seems like a minimal cost to help take all of the real work out of a wax job.   Smiley

First.

Don't get a buffing wheel. The cotton-type terry towels will do more damage on your paint than good. Point being, as you use the wheel, you may/may not pick-up containments across the paint and just end up grinding it on your paint all over the car.

I use foam applicators. I go about 4-5 applications and I throw them away. My car is fairly clean through each application, so that's why I extend the period that long.

Second.

Do you use clay bar? I'd always make sure your car is clayed before waxing. Same point as above...you can do more damage than good with grinding embedded particles back into your paint. You can pick up Clay Bar Kits at Pepboys and Autozone. Look for Blue Magic Clay.

Third.

Carnuba is overall a better wax because it's in Paste Form...versus liquid. Liquid wax is only possible because Carnuba content is generally less than say, the same exact wax in paste form. In it's natural state...Carnuba is hard as a rock. So always choose a paste form over a liquid. It may take longer to apply and remove, but it goes with it's pros:

Longer Durability (I can get around 3-4 Weeks before Beading starts to break down)
More Depth
More Gloss

Fourth.

I've had great success with Poorboys World Wax. It's a cheap alternative to other waxes, and they have a fantastic reputation as a company in general. I like the Poorboys Natty's Red Paste Wax. It's about $15-$20 plus shipping, since it's not available in local stores:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboys-World-M1/Nattys-Red-Paste-Wax-P31/8-oz-S1/
http://www.autogeek.net/poorboys-nattys-red-wax.html

There is also a Blue Wax offered by Poorboys for the same price:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboys-World-M1/Nattys-Blue-Paste-Wax-P30/8-oz-S1/
http://www.autogeek.net/nattys-blue.html

I can't tell you the difference on them...so go with whatever you want. Red smells like strawberries, blue smells like blueberries (and they smell good).

Fifth.

If you want to "Hide" imperfections, Glaze would be a better alternative. Carnuba does do a decent job at filling, but Glaze is ment to do exactly that...Fill.

I use to use Chemical Guys Ez-Creme Glaze. I don't use it anymore, as I do full paint correction now. If you can wait til the beginning of May, I'll bring the remaining (or some) down for you to use/test out. I'm stuck in School before then.

FYI - Here is my old car with 2 Coats of Poorboys Nattys Red Wax on it. It has alot of paint correction done to it, so that also takes into effect on Depth, and Gloss:





If I skipped over anything, let me know. I love talking about this all day. You can yell at Kale for having the rest of my Poorboys Nattys Wax...I moved on to more expensive waxes (Dodo Juice) and Kale was the first person I knew who wanted it, or I would of offered it to you
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-Kyle
2016 Scion FRS
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Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2011, 09:17:23 AM »

I had only heard of "clay barring" just within the past couple of years, but never looked into the process or considered doing it before.  As far as glaze... I don't believe I've ever heard that term before other than on a doughnut.   Smiley  I'm a little surprised you said that water beeding wore off in 3-4 weeks.  That Nu Finish stuff seems to beed the water for at least a couple of months if not the majority of the summer.  I realize however that may be dependent on how much you drive the car or how much it is out in the elements.  If you garage a car and rarely drive it I bet the wax would last quite a long time.  I guess I was mainly looking into something that could help with swirling.  Being that about 1/2 the car was painted some areas have more swirling than others and the roof under certain lights (flourescent usually) looks the most faded out of all the places on the car. 
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AJ
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« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2011, 09:44:56 AM »

fluorescent lights will show you any imperfection that the sun light won't. we had a vette in the shop once that in the sun looked perfect but under fluorescent lights you could see the black gel coat specs in the hood that was showing through the paint.

get a good wax like mothers or meguiars to name a few. and clay bar is easy to do, do it before waxing. i always wash the car then clay bar then rinse the car off again then dry it before i wax.
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Brian
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2011, 10:35:30 AM »

www.griotsgarage.com is your friend....
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Monkey
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2011, 11:22:52 AM »

I had only heard of "clay barring" just within the past couple of years, but never looked into the process or considered doing it before.  As far as glaze... I don't believe I've ever heard that term before other than on a doughnut.   Smiley  I'm a little surprised you said that water beeding wore off in 3-4 weeks.  That Nu Finish stuff seems to beed the water for at least a couple of months if not the majority of the summer.  I realize however that may be dependent on how much you drive the car or how much it is out in the elements.  If you garage a car and rarely drive it I bet the wax would last quite a long time.  I guess I was mainly looking into something that could help with swirling.  Being that about 1/2 the car was painted some areas have more swirling than others and the roof under certain lights (flourescent usually) looks the most faded out of all the places on the car. 

The wax will bead for longer than that, but the beading will break down.

For 3-4 Weeks, the beading will look like this:


After that, the beading would start to break down, and appear like this:


Yes, the car is still beading. But that's a good signal you need to apply more wax. From there, I'll usually strip the wax and re-apply. I'm very OCD when it comes to my car. So when I see any signs of it breaking down...I'll immediately stop.

I've never seen a wax exceed 2 months worth of solid protection. If you're looking more towards durability, then you need to invest into a sealant.

My car was daily driven, always in the sun. That does factor in some of the durability.

Here is the description from the Glaze that I use:
Quote
The EZ Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II is a great way to quickly add lots of shine back to your paint. With just one application you will add dramatic depth and gloss that makes the paint look very deep. Apply the EZ Creme Glaze by hand or with a buffer and you'll instantly notice how it helps fill in imperfections and provide a more uniform appearance to the clear coat. This special formula helps fill in and ultra fine swirls, so they are not visible to the naked eye. The shine left behind is quite remarkable and gives you an unbelievable amount of gloss that really grabs the light for maximum reflection. The polymers included in this formula helps you get a longer lasting shine which differentiates this formula from other glazes. The versatility and impressive results make it extremely valuable for any detailer to have. Use it after applying polishes and before applying a sealant or wax. No matter where you use the EZ Creme Glaze in your routine you are sure to add more shine with this easy to use formula.

Let me know if this helps.

Here is a good step-by-step for Clay, Glaze, Sealant, and Wax
http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/Clay-Bar/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/Glazes/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/Sealants/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/Carnauba-Waxes/

You should read up the overviews on those and determine where you want to go. I'll help you point you in the right direction. Remember, Glaze doesn't provide any protection; so you'll still need wax.

Not to go off on a Tangent or anything either, I'm not a big fan of Griots. Good products, I won't disagree...but not worth the price
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-Kyle
2016 Scion FRS
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Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2011, 12:00:11 PM »

Something I forgot to mention is that the past couple of years I started using the Eagle 1 Wash and Wax stuff when I wash the car..  http://www.eagleone.com/pages/products/product.asp?itemid=1128
So.. technically I've mildly been waxing the car every time I wash it..  so that is probably the reason that I get good beading just having waxed the car(s) once a year.  (meaning waxed with a pad and rag versus just a wash and wax)  

I like my cars to look good, but I'm always looking for a way to make it take less time or easier..  This multi stage thing without a buffer just sounds like way more time than I'd ever want to spend on one once let alone multiple times a year.   I'll likely get a buffer anyway though.. I always clean the car well and if I over use my wrists and hands I regret it later on.  I don't have carpal tunnel, but just pretty sensitive to over-use.. especially if I've been doing much guitar finger picking.  So... for me.. ease of application and removal is pretty key.  I've used waxes before that felt like you had to jackhammer them off and that is some pain..  Cry 

Brian... just by reading the description on the stuff you suggested that sounds pretty decent and actually not expensive.  I may get some of that this year.  
« Last Edit: March 21, 2011, 12:02:53 PM by Bub » Logged
Brian
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« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2011, 03:53:12 PM »

Kyle, no argument that Griots isnt walmart prices, but those names one tends to buy at Walmart or your yocal auto parts place leave much to be desired. There is also Presta products... sponsor of Mid Ohio and a great quality wash and wax. Again not the mass-market Walmart type stuff, nor the walmart type price. Great product regardless.
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Brian
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« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2011, 03:53:54 PM »

http://www.prestaproducts.com/
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Monkey
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« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2011, 05:04:37 PM »

Kyle, no argument that Griots isnt walmart prices, but those names one tends to buy at Walmart or your yocal auto parts place leave much to be desired. There is also Presta products... sponsor of Mid Ohio and a great quality wash and wax. Again not the mass-market Walmart type stuff, nor the walmart type price. Great product regardless.

Completely agreed. I'm going off of their polishing line-up and just a little of their wax. The polish can't cut through most clear coats. Against Honda's and Mitsubishi, it will fair fine..but put it on a BMW or Mercedes and you're wasting most of your time. The Wax, I'm not a huge fan of. The only reason is that it's protection and depth isn't up to par as other products. Just in my opinion with working with other products, I feel like for the same price, you can usually find something better

I'm a huge endorser of Poorboy Products for people who want to maintain their car with optimal results:

http://www.poorboysworld.com/

Like said before. I use to use Poorboys World Wax until I gave my remaining amount to Kale. I still use their Wheel Sealant though. Make cleaning wheels easy. It beats Wheel Wax in comparison.

I also love Chemical Guys: I use their Citrus Wash and Gloss and JetSeal 109. They get towards the expensive end of products though.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Default.asp?Redirected=Y

For the most part. I'll endorse most of the products on detailedimage.com. I've always ordered most of my products from there and they are as helpful as can be.

Sorry going off on a Tangent like I said I wasn't going to do, but I understand Bub that working on your car for a couple hours by washing it, claying it, and waxing it isn't something that your joints really like...lol

Bub. I "may" have a random tin of Poorboys Natty Red Wax I could give to you if it's still sitting at home. If you want to try anything else before you buy...let me know and I'll see if I have it
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-Kyle
2016 Scion FRS
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Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2011, 05:22:13 PM »


Sorry going off on a Tangent like I said I wasn't going to do, but I understand Bub that working on your car for a couple hours by washing it, claying it, and waxing it isn't something that your joints really like...lol


Heh.. yea.. makes me sound like an old guy or something, but I find it better not to aggervate myself with things like prolonged car washing and waxing.  

Just wondering, but I just realized I have this stuff that was passed out at one of the events this past year.  Has anyone out there tried it?  It is this Prestone water activated liquid carnuba wax stuff.  I have 3 4oz sample bottles these girls were passing out.  Here is a picture of the bottle.    

 


My biggest pet peeve is wax that leaves the white residue on rubber or has an excessive amount of dust that does not just kind of blow away easily.
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Rich Grunenwald
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Stirring the pot...


WWW
« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2011, 05:33:02 PM »

What is this "wax" that you speak of???
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I have two big heavy 'Murican race cars. Must be an old guy thing.
Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« Reply #12 on: March 21, 2011, 10:57:47 PM »

I'm guessing that means your car hasn't seen any wax.. Right? 
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BeerMan
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« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2011, 08:15:34 AM »

What is this "wax" that you speak of???

Thanks Rich.  I was waiting for a "real" racer to show up.  Jeez guys, are we turning into a bunch waxers here of something?  Just throw something on your car that won't take too long so you can get back to working on the important stuff that makes you faster.

BeerMan
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Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2011, 08:24:16 AM »

Heh.. I was waiting for that... I was actually surprised it took that long.  I was asking partially for all of the cars we have, but the Honda is much older.  But.. yea.. after some reading looks like I'll stick with the quick and dirty "fake wax" and the wax and wash stuff.   Smiley It gets the job done pretty quick... looks pretty darn good and does not take a whole day worth of fooling around.   
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Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2011, 05:25:29 PM »

Here is one coat of Nu-Finish..  I still have half a bottle to use up...  Good shots I guess and considering the car has about 3 various stages of paint ranging from original, 1 year old paint, and who knows how old... all patchworked together... not to mention loads of swirl scratches randomly all over.  


« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 05:29:43 PM by Bub » Logged
Stamperman
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« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2011, 08:53:02 PM »

Hey Bud!
Based on how often you wax your car I would suggest the following: 
1.  The use of a clay bar before waxing
2.  Using a paint sealant instead of a wax.

I've been using Wofgang 3.0 Deep Gloss Paint sealant.  I last clayed my daily driver in late October and put a coat of sealant on it at the same time.  Even after the winter we have had water still beads and will run off in rivulets when the car is clean enough to allow it.  It does cost a bit more, but it a bottle will last you about forever.  I can also say that it looks as good or better than any carnuba (or any other) wax I've ever used. Wipe on, let sit for an hour, easy wipe off.

You can buy it from autogeek.net  My $0.02  :-)

Alan
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BeerMan
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« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2011, 11:50:16 PM »

The DelSol looks great.  I think you should try to see how good you can make EM71 look.
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Monkey
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« Reply #18 on: March 27, 2011, 12:19:48 AM »

Hey Bud!
Based on how often you wax your car I would suggest the following:  
1.  The use of a clay bar before waxing
2.  Using a paint sealant instead of a wax.

I've been using Wofgang 3.0 Deep Gloss Paint sealant.  I last clayed my daily driver in late October and put a coat of sealant on it at the same time.  Even after the winter we have had water still beads and will run off in rivulets when the car is clean enough to allow it.  It does cost a bit more, but it a bottle will last you about forever.  I can also say that it looks as good or better than any carnuba (or any other) wax I've ever used. Wipe on, let sit for an hour, easy wipe off.

You can buy it from autogeek.net  My $0.02  :-)

Alan

+1 on Wolfgang 3.0 Paint Sealant....This is what I use for my sealant.

Rich (aka Rich with the E36 M) has this as well...I gave some to him. If you want, I can bring you down enough for a couple coats...I love it
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-Kyle
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Bub
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#13 STC Chevy Turbo Sonic


« Reply #19 on: March 27, 2011, 02:02:06 AM »

The DelSol looks great.  I think you should try to see how good you can make EM71 look.

Thanks.   Just wondering, but on your car is all of that paint or is part of that a vinyl wrap?  Compared to the gold it used to be I know it is a drastic change, but just wasn't sure if it was all paint except for the things like the EM, Gorman, 171 and the autosmarts stuff.  Regardless... I bet it would wax up and shine pretty good.  (not that it ever looks bad anyway)  I'm guessing having a trailered car you probably dust it off and put on a car cover after an event. 
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BeerMan
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« Reply #20 on: March 27, 2011, 11:48:55 AM »

Thanks.   Just wondering, but on your car is all of that paint or is part of that a vinyl wrap?  Compared to the gold it used to be I know it is a drastic change, but just wasn't sure if it was all paint except for the things like the EM, Gorman, 171 and the autosmarts stuff.  Regardless... I bet it would wax up and shine pretty good.  (not that it ever looks bad anyway) 
It's all paint - done by one of our sponsors (Gorman Body Shop)

I'm guessing having a trailered car you probably dust it off and put on a car cover after an event. 
Exactly, except for the dusting it off & car cover parts.  I know we waxed it when it was fresh. Not sure if we have since then.  Mostly just wipe the oil off the bottom.   Wink

Probably won't see us out much at all this year.  Then we'll probaby have Gorman do something different with the paint for next season.

Later,
BeerMan
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